Choosing pots and planters for growing herbs

Herbs are among the easiest plants to grow in containers, and the pot you choose does a lot of the work. A good herb pot is deep enough for roots, has holes in the base so water can drain away, and sits in a sunny, sheltered spot close enough to the kitchen that you actually use what you grow.

The Royal Horticultural Society suggests a container at least 20 cm deep with plenty of drainage holes for a mixed pot of Mediterranean herbs such as sage, thyme, rosemary and oregano. That one figure rules out a lot of shallow decorative bowls and very small pots.

The other decision is which herbs share a pot. Herbs that like the same conditions can be planted together. Herbs with different needs, and mint in particular, are better off in separate containers.

How big should a herb pot be?

Depth matters more than width for most herbs, because roots need room to grow down and a deeper pot holds more compost, so it dries out more slowly. As a starting point:

If you are unsure, go a size up. A larger pot is more forgiving if you miss a watering, which is the most common reason potted herbs struggle. You can compare sizes and shapes in the pots and planters range.

Drainage: the one thing a herb pot cannot do without

Rosemary, thyme, sage and oregano dislike sitting in wet compost. Whatever pot you buy, check that it has at least one drainage hole, and preferably several. The RHS recommends a layer of about 2.5 cm of gravel, broken polystyrene or small pieces of terracotta in the base so roots are not left in waterlogged compost.

A few practical points:

• Decorative pots without holes work as an outer cover: plant into a plastic pot with holes and stand it inside, then tip out any water that collects.
• Raise outdoor pots slightly on pot feet or bricks so water can run out freely.
• Mix some grit into the compost for Mediterranean herbs to keep it free draining.
• Saucers are useful indoors, but empty them after watering.

Terracotta, metal, wood or plastic?

Each material changes how quickly compost dries out and how the pot copes with weather.

• Terracotta: unglazed clay is porous, so moisture evaporates through the sides. That suits rosemary, thyme and sage, which prefer drier roots, but it means more watering in summer. Not all terracotta is frost resistant, so check the description if the pot will stay out over winter.
• Glazed ceramic: holds moisture better than bare terracotta and looks good indoors. Make sure it has a drainage hole.
• Metal (galvanised or zinc): popular for window boxes and old style buckets. Metal heats up in strong sun, so a liner or a slightly shaded spot helps. Some metal planters need holes drilled in the base before planting.
• Wood: tiered ladder planters and wooden troughs give a lot of growing space in a small area. A liner extends the life of the wood.
• Plastic and recycled plastic: light, cheap and keeps compost moist for longer, which suits parsley, chives, basil and mint.

Which herbs can share a pot?

Group herbs by what they need. Growveg’s advice is to pair herbs with similar requirements: rosemary, lavender and thyme like full sun and well drained soil, while chives and parsley cope with more shade. Leafy herbs such as basil and parsley also need more water than small leaved aromatic herbs.

A simple way to plan it:

1. Sunny and dry pot: rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano or marjoram, winter savory.
2. Moist and partly shaded pot: parsley, chives, coriander.
3. Warm windowsill: basil, which does not like cold nights.
4. On its own: mint, because of its spreading roots.

Put taller herbs at the back or in the centre and trailing ones such as some thymes at the edge. Seeds and young plants for all of these are in the plants and seeds category, and the wider garden plants and seeds section covers vegetables and flowers too.

Planting and looking after potted herbs

The RHS method for a mixed herb container is straightforward. Fill the pot partly with multi-purpose compost, set the plants so the top of the root ball sits about 2.5 cm below the rim, fill around them, firm gently and water well. A mulch of gravel keeps the leaves of low herbs clean.

Water when the compost starts to dry out rather than on a fixed schedule, and less in winter. After a couple of months a general liquid feed every two to three weeks keeps growth going, according to the same RHS advice. Picking regularly helps too: cutting leafy herbs often encourages new shoots.

Useful extras such as plant labels, small hand tools and gloves are in the gardening section. Once the plants are growing well, the guide to storing dried herbs and spices explains how to keep what you harvest.

Quick checklist

• At least 20 cm deep for mixed herbs, bigger for shrubby herbs.
• Drainage holes in the base, plus a layer of crocks or gravel.
• Terracotta for dry loving herbs, plastic or glazed pots for thirsty ones.
• Check frost resistance for pots that stay outside in winter.
• Group herbs by sun and water needs.
• Mint in a pot of its own.
• Sunny, sheltered spot, close to the kitchen.
• Water when the top of the compost is dry, feed lightly in summer.

Common questions

Can I grow herbs indoors all year?

Many herbs grow on a bright windowsill, especially basil, parsley, chives and mint. Growth slows in winter when light is low, so pick sparingly then. Use a pot with a drainage hole and a saucer you empty after watering.

Why are the leaves on my rosemary turning brown?

The most common cause in pots is too much water or poor drainage, though a pot that dries out completely can do the same. Check that water runs freely out of the base, and let the compost dry a little between waterings.

Do herb pots need to be planted in spring?

Spring and early summer are the easiest times to start, because young plants then have the whole season to establish. Hardy perennial herbs such as thyme and sage can be planted later in the year too, as long as the compost does not stay wet.